Willy's Tuscan Trattoria,

582 Main Street, Shrewsbury, 842-7800.

If you're anxious to sample Tuscan cuisine you need travel no further east than downtown Shrewsbury where Willy's Tuscan Trattoria, offers some delightful examples of the simple, earthy cooking of this northern region of Italy. Willy's features 16 varieties of risotto; risotto di mare, made with shrimp, scallops, and mussels ($9.95) is superb. Just as good is gnocchi d'Abruzzo ($9.95), small nuggets of potato based pasta sauteed with veal, mushrooms, artichoke hearts, and sun-dried tomatoes. Veal, chicken, and eggplant are offered in several styles, including Parmigiano, piccata, Marsala, cacciatore, and scaloppini. Because the trattoria shares the same kitchen as the renowned Willy's Steakhouse the range of the menu is much greater than you'd expect.

Full review.

Price Range: $7.95 - $12.95.